Wednesday, June 5, 2013

new pot for Scots pine #20

Scots pine, Pinus sylvetris, collected in France in 1995. This tree I got last October from karl Thier. It was not repotted in ten to fifteen years, which is alright with such pines. Only it started to move upwards in the pot which was to small anyway and had too many roots by now. So I had to decide whether I wanted to first style the tree and then repot it or the other way round. I chose to first repot it into this great shell by William Vlanderen from the Netherlands. In the summer of 2004 this tree will be fully wired then.



Anonymous said...

Great. The outline of the pot compliments the silhouette of the outside trunks. I’m curious if you will keep all the trunks when styling, or eliminate any. The front trunk crosses the others, and this could be considered to add or detract, depending on your artistic opinion. Or it could be a long jin, presented front and center, and contrasting the other trunks.

How is your health, btw?


Walter Pall said...

I will keep all the trunks, some will be a bit shorter. Fr crossing trunk is the main feature, It is a slap into the face of all old-fashioned bonsaiists who no nothing but the rules.

Walter Pall said...

I believe it was not styled in almost twenty years because for one it is too big for most and then this crossing trunk was always a problem. If you remove it you get a very plain, boring group. It is not really possible to bend it straigt. I bought the tree just because of this crossing trunk.

Anonymous said...

I thought you might choose that. You may have noticed: the Japanese styling rules would not allow something like this, but if you look at old famous Japanese trees, you will see things like this, and it is explained that this is what makes the tree a unique masterpiece. I could be wrong in my limited experience.


Marc said...

Keep the crossing trunk. It gives the tree a more of a 3D look. With that I mean that you can look at the tree from mutiple angles instead of just the front.