Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Mugo pine #47
Mugo pine, Pinus mugo, collected in 2009 in the Alps, very old. The tree is starting to throw quite healthy new growth. So we started to style it. First the deadwood. Now the tree will have to rest and develop a very dense crown. This will take until summer of 2013. Then we can probably start to wire the thick branches and bend them. In summer of 2014 the thin branches will be wired and bent. In spring of 2016 the tree may go into a bonsai pot. This will most probably not be a cascade although everything looks like it so far. We'll see. Lots of time remaining to think about it.
pines for sale or trade
All pines are collected high quality and well established. First one mugo pine, Pinus mugo, the rest all Scots pine, Pinus sylvestris.
all for sale or trade.
all for sale or trade.
Bonsai in Slovakia 2011
In June of 2010 the first bonsai symposium in Slovakia was quite successful.
See here:
http://walter-pall-travelogues.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_archive.html
Since there were Slovakian, Czech, Hungarian and Austrian folks we called it 'Habsburg bonsai meeting' in reminiscence of the Habsburg Empire in which all these nations were under one roof.
the next Habsburg symposium will take place on the coming weekend, June17 to 19 in Slovakia. I am ready to mount the airplane to Vienna tomorrow evening.
As I understand there has been a cancellation and two seats are available again. So if you are interested contact Maros soon:
Maros Belan
See the hornbeam that I did as demo last year as of today.
See here:
http://walter-pall-travelogues.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_archive.html
Since there were Slovakian, Czech, Hungarian and Austrian folks we called it 'Habsburg bonsai meeting' in reminiscence of the Habsburg Empire in which all these nations were under one roof.
the next Habsburg symposium will take place on the coming weekend, June17 to 19 in Slovakia. I am ready to mount the airplane to Vienna tomorrow evening.
As I understand there has been a cancellation and two seats are available again. So if you are interested contact Maros soon:
Maros Belan
See the hornbeam that I did as demo last year as of today.
Sunday, June 12, 2011
air layering field elm
Field elm, Ulmus campestre. From nursery stock, started in 1988. First image 1994, second image 2008, third image 2010.
So this tree is in training since almost 25 years. And yet it never was on an exhibit and it seems that it never would. Why that, the tree looks pretty good? Well, the crown is OK, but the nebari is lousy. I air-layered the tree in 2006. But the result was not what I expected. The roots were very one-sided. Then I just put substrate on top of the nebari for a few years and hoped that an elm would ail-layer itself. Well, it did not. So today Walter and I decided to air-layer it a second time.
First the cut. The distance between the cuts must be as long as you dare, the longer the better. Otherwise the air-layer will probably not work. The cambium which is the brown soft stuff under the hard bark must be removed totally. TOTALLY! Otherwise it will not work.Then the cage. Then some substrate, then sphagnum moss from my pond, then some substrate again. That's it. Now we water the whole tree including the nest every day and see what happens until September. The pot and the cage are fed like all trees every ten days or so. No exception for air-layered trees. They are treated all the same as other trees.
Please don't bother me with mails about the substrate. It does not matter, what exactly you take as long as it is modern substrate! It's exactly the same stuff that I plant EVERYTHING into. If you don't have real live sphagnum moss take some other moss from the garden or forest.
And don't worry about the tree. Less than one tree out of 100 treated like this dies. But more than 50 % of air layers don't work or don't work well. The main reason is that folks are too timid. As you can see Walter is bold. Well, it' not his tree anyway. Should an air-layer not work satisfactory, repeat it next year.
We will report about progress.
So this tree is in training since almost 25 years. And yet it never was on an exhibit and it seems that it never would. Why that, the tree looks pretty good? Well, the crown is OK, but the nebari is lousy. I air-layered the tree in 2006. But the result was not what I expected. The roots were very one-sided. Then I just put substrate on top of the nebari for a few years and hoped that an elm would ail-layer itself. Well, it did not. So today Walter and I decided to air-layer it a second time.
First the cut. The distance between the cuts must be as long as you dare, the longer the better. Otherwise the air-layer will probably not work. The cambium which is the brown soft stuff under the hard bark must be removed totally. TOTALLY! Otherwise it will not work.Then the cage. Then some substrate, then sphagnum moss from my pond, then some substrate again. That's it. Now we water the whole tree including the nest every day and see what happens until September. The pot and the cage are fed like all trees every ten days or so. No exception for air-layered trees. They are treated all the same as other trees.
Please don't bother me with mails about the substrate. It does not matter, what exactly you take as long as it is modern substrate! It's exactly the same stuff that I plant EVERYTHING into. If you don't have real live sphagnum moss take some other moss from the garden or forest.
And don't worry about the tree. Less than one tree out of 100 treated like this dies. But more than 50 % of air layers don't work or don't work well. The main reason is that folks are too timid. As you can see Walter is bold. Well, it' not his tree anyway. Should an air-layer not work satisfactory, repeat it next year.
We will report about progress.
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